Galapagos Islands  Source  Whalesite

CHAP. V.

The Author departs from John Fernando's. Of the Of the Andes, or high Mountains in Peru and Chili. A Prize taken. Isle of Lobos: Penguins, and other Birds there. Three Prizes more. The Islands Gallapago's: The Dildo. tree, Burton-wood, Mammet-trees, Guanoes, Land Tortoise, their several kind; Green Snakes, Turtle-Doves, Tortoise, or Turtle-grass. Sea Turtle, their several kinds. The Air and Weather at the Gallapago's. Some of the Islands describ'd, their Soil, &c. The Island Cocos describ'd. Cape Blanco, and the Bay of Caldera; the Sevanahs there. Captain Cook dies. Of Nicoya, and a Red Wood for Dying, and other Commodities. A narrow Escape of 12 Men. Lancewood. Volean Vejo, a burning Mountain on the Coast of Ria Lexa. A Tornado. The Island and Harbor of Ria Lexa. The Gulph of Amapalla, and Point Casivina. Isles of Mangera and Amapalla. The Indian Inhabitants. Hog-plumb-tree. Other Islands in the Gulph of Amapalla. Captain Eaton and Captain Davis careen their Ships here, and afterwards part.

      The 8th of April, 1684. we sailed from the Isle of John Fernando, with the Wind at S. E. We were now 2 Ships in Company: Captain Cook's,

whose Ship I was in, and who here took the Sickness of which he dy'd a while after; and Captain Eaton's. Our passage lay now along the Pacifick Sea, properly so called. For though it be usual with our Map-makers to give that Name to this whole Ocean, calling it Mare Australe, Mar del Zar, or Mare Pacificum; yet, in my opinion, the Name of the Pacifick Sea ought not to be extended from South to North farther than from 30 to about 4 degrees South Latitude, and from the American Shore Westward indefinitely, with respect to my Observation; who have been in these parts 250 Leagues or more from Land, and still had the Sea very quiet from Winds. For in all this Tract of Water, of which I have spoken, there are no dark rainy Clouds, though often a thick Horizon, so as to hinder an Observation of the Sun with the Quadrant; and in the morning hazy weather frequently, and thick Mists, but scarce able to wet one. Nor are there in this Sea any Winds but the Trade-wind, no Tempests, no Tornado's, or Hurricans (though North of the Equator, they are met with as well in this Ocean as in the Atlantick) yet the Sea it self at the new and full of the Moon, runs with high, large, long Surges, but such as never break out at Sea, and so are safe enough; unless that where they fell in and break upon the shore, they make it bad landing.

      In this Sea we made the best of our way toward the Line, till in the lat. of 24. S. where we fell in with the main Land of the South America. All this course of the Land, both of Chili and Peru is vastly high; therefore we kept 12 or 14 leagues off from shore, being unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards dwelling there. The Land (especially beyond this, from 24 deg. S. Lat. to 17, and from 14 to 10) is of a most prodigious heighth. It lies generally in ridges parallel to the Shore, and 3 or 4 ridges one within another, each surpassing other in heighth;

and those that are farthest within Land are much higher than the others. They always appear blue when seen at Sea: sometimes they are obscured with Clouds, but not so often as the high Lands in other parts of the world; for here are seldom, or never any Rains on these Hills, any more than in the Sea near it; neither are they subject to Fogs. These are the highest Mountains that ever I saw, far surpassing the Pike of Tenariffe, or Santa Martha, and I believe any Mountains in the world.

      I have seen very high Land in the Lat. of 30 South, but not so high as in the Latitudes before described. In Sir John Narborough's Voyage also to Baldivia (a City on this Coast) mention is made of very high Land seen near Baldivia: and the Spaniard; with whom I have discoursed have told me, that there is very high Land all the way between Coquimbo (which lies in about 30 deg. S. Lat.) and Baldivia, which is in 40 South; so that by all likelihood these ridges of Mountains do run in a continued Chain from one end of Peru and Chili to the other, all along this South Sea Coast, called usually the Andes, or Sierra Nuevada des Andes. The excessive heighth of these Mountains may, possibly, be the reason, that there are no Rivers of note that fall into these Seas. Some small Rivers indeed there are, but very few of them, for in some places there is not one that comes out into the Sea in 150 or 200 Leagues; and where they are thickest they are 30, 40, or 50 Leagues asunder, and too little and shallow to be navigable. Besides, some of these do not constantly run, but are dry at certain seasons of the year: as the River of Ylo, runs flush with a quick Current at the latter end of January, and so continues till June, and then it decreaseth by degrees, growing less, and running slow till the latter end of September, when it fails wholly, and runs no more till January again: This I have seen at both sea-

sons, in 2 former Voyages I made hither, and have been informed by the Spaniards, that other Rivers on this Coast are of the like nature, being rather Torrents or Land-floods caused by their Rains at certain seasons far within Land, than Perennial Streams.

      We kept still along in sight of this Coast, but at a good distance from it, encountring with nothing of Note, till in the lat. of 9 deg. 40 min. South, on the 3d of May, we descried a Sail to the Northward of us. She was plying to Windward, we chaced her, and Captain Eaton being a head soon took her: she came from Guiaquil about a month before, laden with Timber, and was bound to Lima. Three days before we took her she came from Santa, whither she had gone for Water, and where they had news of our being in these Seas by an Express from Baldivia; for as we afterwards heard, Captain Swan had been at Baldivia to seek a Trade there, and he having met Captain Eaton in the Streights of Magellan, the Spaniards of Baldivia were doubtless informed of us by him; suspecting him also to be one of us, tho he was not. Upon this News the Viceroy of Lima sent Expresses to all the Sea Ports, that they might provide themselves against our Assaults.

      We immediately steered away for the Island Lobos, which lieth in lat. 6 deg. 24 min. South lat. (I took the Elevation of it ashore with an Astrolabe) and its 5 leagues from the Main: it is called Lobos de la Mar, to distinguish it from another that is not far from it, and extremely like it, called Lobos de la Terra, for it lies nearer the Main. Lobos, or Lovos, is the Spanish Name for a Seal, of which there are great plenty about these, and several other Islands in these Seas that go by this Name.

      The 9th of May, we arrived at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar, and came to an anchor with our Prize. This Lobos consists indeed of two little Islands, each about a mil•…und, of an indifferent heighth, a

small Channel between, fit for Boats only; and several Rocks lying on the North side of the Islands, a little way from shore. There is a small Cove or Sandy Bay sheltred from the Winds, at the West end of the Eastermost Island; where Ships may Careen: The rest of the shore, as well round the 2 Islands as between them, is a Rocky Coast, consisting of small Cliffs. Within Land they are both of them partly Rocky, and partly Sandy, Barren, without any fresh Water, Tree, Shrub, Grass, or Herbs; or any Land Animals (for the Seals and Sea-Lyons come ashore here) but Fowls: Of which there are great multitudes; as Boobies; but mostly Penguins, which I have seen plentifully all over the South Seas, on the Coast of Newfoundland, and of the Cape of Good Hope. They are a Sea Fowl, about as big as a Duck, and such Feet; but a sharp Bill, feeding on Fish: They do not fly but flutter, having rather stumps like a young Gossins, than Wings: And these are instead of Fins to them in the Water. Their Feathers are Downy. Their flesh is but ordinary food; but their Eggs are good Meat. There is another sort of small black Fowl, that make holes in the Sand for their Night habitations, whose flesh is good sweet meat: I never saw any of them but here, and at John Fernandos.

      There is good riding between the Eastermost Island and the Rocks, in 10, 12, or 14 fathom; for the wind is commonly at S. or S. S. E. and the Eastermost Island lying East and West shelters that Road.

      Here we scrubb'd our Ships, and being in a readiness to sail, the Prisoners were Examined; to know if any of them could conduct us to some Town where we might make some attempt: For they had before informed us that we were discried by the Spaniards; and by that we knew that they would send no Riches by Sea so long as we were here. Many

Towns were considered on, as Guiaquil, Zana, Truxillo, and others: At last Truxillo was pitched on, as the most important; therefore the likeliest to make us a Voyage if we could Conquer it: which we did not much question; though we knew it to be a very populous City. But the greatest difficulty was in Landing; for Guanchaquo, which is the nearest Sea-port to it, but 6 miles off, is an ill place to Land; since sometimes the very Fishermen that live there are not able to go out in 3 or 4 days. However the 17th of May in the Afternoon, our Men were mustered of both Ships Companies, and their Arms proved. We were in all 108 Men fit for Service; besides the sick: and the next day we intended to Sail and take the Wood Prize with us. But the next day one of our Men being ashoar betimes on the Island discried three Sail bound to the North-ward; two of them without the Island, to the Westward; the other between it and the Continent.

      We soon got our Anchors up and chased: and Captain Eaton, who drew the least draught of Water, put through between the Westermost Island and the Rocks, and went after those two that were without the Islands. We in Captain Cook's Ship went after the other, which stood in for the Main-Land: but we soon fetched her up; and having taken her, stood in again with her to the Island; for we saw that Captain Eaton wanted no help, having taken both those that he went after. He came in with one of his Prizes; but the other was so far to Leeward, and so deep that he could not then get her in: but he hoped to get her in the next day: but being deep laden, as designed to go down before the wind to Panama, she would not bear Sail.

      The 19th day she turned all day; but got nothing nearer the Island. Our Moskito strikers according to their custom went out and struck 6 Turtles; for here are indifferent plenty of them. These Ships

that we took the day before came from Guanchaquo, all three laden with Flower; bound for Panama. Two of them were laden as deep as they could swim; the other was not above half laden; but was ordered by the Vice-Roy of Lima to sail with the other two, or else she should not sail till we were gone out of the Seas: for he hoped they might escape us by setting out early. In the biggest Ship was a Letter to the President of Panama from the Vice-Roy of Lima; assuring him, that there were Enemies come into that Sea: for which reason he had dispatched these three Ships with Flower, that they might not want; (for Panama is supplied from Peru;) and desired him to be frugal of it, for he knew not when he should send more. In this Ship were likewise 7 or 8 Tuns of Marmalate of Quinees; and a stately Mule sent to the President, and a very large Image of the Virgin Mary in Wood, Carved and Painted to adorn a new Church at Panama, and sent from Lima by the Vice-Roy; for this great Ship came from thence not long before. She brought also from Lima 800000 pieces of Eight to carry with her to Panama: but while she lay at Guanchaco, taking in her lading of Flower, the Merchants hearing of Capt. Swan's being at Baldivia, ordered the Money ashore again. These Prisoners likewise informed us that the Gentlemen (Inhabitants of Truxillo) were building a Fort at Guanchaco (which is the Sea Port for Truxillo) close by the Sea; purposely to hinder the designs of any that should attempt to land there. Upon this news we altered our former resolutions, and resolved to go with our three Prizes to the Gallapagos: which are a great many large Islands, lying some under the Equator, others on each side of it. I shall here omit the description of Truxillo: because in my Appontlix at the latter end of the Book, I intend to give a general Relation of most of the Towns of note on this Coast, from Baldivia to Panama; and from thence towards California.

      The 19th day in the evening we sailed from the Island Lobos, with Captain Eaton in our Company.

      We carried the 3 Flower Prizes with us, but our first Prize laden with Timber, we left here at an Anchor; the Wind was at S. by E. which is the common Trade-Wind here, and we steered away N. W. by N. intending to run into the latitude of the Isles Gallapagos, and steer off West, because we did not know the certain distance, and therefore could not shape a direct course to them. When we came within 40 minutes of the Equator, we steered West, having the Wind at South, a very moderate gentle Gale. It was the 31st day of May when we first had sight of the Islands Gallapagos: Some of them appeared on our Weather-bow, some on our Lee-bow, others right a head. We at first sight trimm d our Sails, and steered as nigh the Wind as we could, striving to get to the Southermost of them, but our Prizes being deep laden, their Sails but small and thin, and a very small Gale, they could not keep up with us; therefore we likewise edged away again, a point from the Wind, to keep near them; and in the evening the Ship that I was in, and Captain Eaton, Anchored on the East side of one of the Eastermost Islands, a mile from the shore, in 16 fathom Water, clean, white, hard Sand.

      The Gallapagos Islands are a great number of uninhabited Islands, lying under, and on both sides of the Equator. The Eastermost of them are about 110 leagues from the Main. They are laid down in the longitude of 181, reaching to the Westward as far as 176, therefore their longitude from England Westward is about 68 degrees. But I believe our Hydrographers do not place them far enough to the West-ward. The Spaniards who first discovered them, and in whose drafts alone they are laid down, report them to be a great number, stretching North-

West from the Line, as far as 5 degrees N. but we saw not above 14 or 15. They are some of them 7 or 8 leagues long, and 3 or 4 broad. They are of a good heighth, most of them flat and even on the top; 4 or 5 of the Eastermost are rocky, barren, and hilly, producing neither Tree, Herb, nor Grass; but a few Dildoe-trees, except by the Sea side. The Dildoe-tree is a green prickly shrub, that grows about 10 or 12 foot high, without either Leaf or Fruit. It is as big as a mans Leg, from the root to the top, and it is full of sharp prickles, growing in thick rows from top to bottom: This shrub is fit for no use, not so much as to burn. Close by the Sea there grows in some places bushes of Burton-wood, which is very good firing. This sort of Wood grows in many places in the West Indies, especially in the Bay of Campeachy, and in the Sambaloes. I did never see any in these Seas but here. There is Water on these barren Islands, in ponds and holes among the Rocks: Some other of these Islands are mostly plain and low, and the Land more fertile; producing Trees of divers sorts, unknown to us. Some of the Westermost of these Islands, are 9 or 10 leagues long, and 6 or 7 broad; the Mould deep and black. These produce Trees of great and tall bodies, especially Mammee-trees, which grow here in great Groves. In these large Islands there are some pretty big Rivers; and on many of the other lesser Islands, there are Brooks of good Water. The Spaniards when they first discovered these Islands, found multitudes of Guanoes, and Land-turtle or Tortoise, and named them the Gallapago's Islands. I do believe there is no place in the World, that is so plentifully stored with these Animals. The Guanoes here, are as fat and large, as any that I ever saw; they are so tame, that a man may knock down 20 in an hours time with a club. The Land-turtle are here so numerous, that 5 or 600 men might

subsist on them alone for several months, without any other sort of Provision: They are extraordinary large and fat; and so sweet, that no Pullet eats more pleasantly. One of the largest of these Creatures will weight 150 or 200 weight, and some of them are 2 foot, or 2 foot 6 inches over the Callapee or Belly. I did never see any but at this place, that will weigh above 30 pound weight. I have heard that at the Isle of St. Lawrence or Madagascar, and at the English Forest, an Island near it, called also Don Mascarin, and now possessed by the French; there are very large ones, but whether so big, fat, and sweet as these, I know not. There are 3 or 4 sorts of these Creatures in the West Indies. One is called by the Spaniards, Hecatee; these live most in fresh Waterponds, and seldom come on Land. They weigh about 10 or 15 pound; they have small Legs and flat Feet, and small long Necks. Another sort is called Tenapen, these are a great deal less than the Hecatee; the Shell on their Backs is all carved naturally, finely wrought, and well clouded: the Backs of these are rounder than those before mentioned; they are otherwise much of the same form: these delight to live in wet swampy places, or on the Land near such places. Both these sorts are very good Meat. They are in great plenty on the Isle of Pines near Cuba: there the Spanish Hunters when they meet them in the Woods bring them home to their Huts, and mark them by notching their Shells, then let them go; this they do to have them at hand, for they never ramble far from thence. When these Hunters return to Cuba, after about a Month or six Weeks stay, they carry with them 3 or 400, or more, of these Creatures to sell; for they are very good Meat, and every man knows his own by their Marks. These Tortoise in the Gallapago's are more like the Hecatee,, except that, as I said before, they are much bigger; and they have very long small

Necks and little Heads. There are some green Snakes on these Islands, but no other Land Animal that I did ever see. There are great plenty of Turtle-Doves so tame, that a Man may kill 5 or 6 dozen in a forenoon with a Stick. They are somewhat less than a Pigeon, and are very good Meat and commonly fat.

      There are good wide Channels between these Islands fit for Ships to pass; and in some places shole Water, where there grows plenty of Turtle-grass; therefore these Islands are plentifully stored with Sea-Turtle of that sort which is called the Green-Turtle: I have hitherto deferred the Description of these Creatures, therefore I shall give it here. There are 4 sorts of Sea-turtle, viz. the Trunk-turtle, the Loggerhead, the Hawksbill, and the Green Turtle. The Trunk-turtle is commonly bigger than the other, their backs are higher and rounder, and their flesh rank, and not wholsome. The Loggerhead is so called, because it hath a great Head, much bigger than the other sorts; their flesh is likewise very rank, and seldom eaten but in case of necessity; they feed on Moss that grows about Rocks. The Hawksbill Turtle is the least kind; they are so called because their mouths are long and small, somewhat resembling the Bill of a Hawk: On the backs of these Hawksbill Turtle grows that Shell which is so much esteem'd for making Cabinets, Combs, and other things. The largest of them may have 3 pound and an half of Shell: I have taken some that have had 3 pound 10 ounces; but they commonly have a pound and half, or two pound; some not so much: these are but ordinary food, but generally sweeter than the Loggerhead: yet these Hawksbills in some places are unwholsome, causing them that eat them to purge and vomit excessively, especially those between the Samboloes and Portabel. We meet with other Fish in the West Indies of the same malignant nature; but I shall describe them in the Appendix. These Hawksbill Turtles are better or worse accord-

ing to their feeding. In some places they feed on Grass, as the Green Tortoise also doth; in other places they keep among Rocks, and feed on Moss or Sea Weeds; but these are not so sweet as those that eat Grass, neither is their Shell so clear, for they are commonly overgrown with Barnacles, which spoils the Shell; and their Flesh is commonly yellow, especially the fat.

      Hawksbill Turtle are in many places of the West Indies. They have Islands and places peculiar to themselves where they lay their Eggs, and seldom come among any other Turtle. These, and all other Turtle lay Eggs in the Sand: their time of laying is in May, June, July; some begin sooner, some later. They lay three times in a season, and at each time 80 or 90 Eggs. Their Eggs are as big as a Hens Egg, and very round, covered only with a white tough Skin. There are some Bays on the North side of Jamaica, where these Hawksbills resort to lay. In the Bay of Honduras are Islands which they likewise make their breeding places, and many places along all the Coast on the Main of the West Indies, from Trinidado to La Vera Cruz in the Bay of Nova Hispania. When a Sea Turtle turns out of the Sea to lay, she is at least an hour before she returnsagain; for she is to go above high water mark, and if it be low water when she comes ashore, she must rest once or twice, being heavy, before she comes to the place where she lays. When she hath found a place for her purpose, she makes a great hole with her Fins in the Sand, wherein she lays her Eggs, then covers them 2 foot deep with the same Sand which she threw out of the hole, and so returns: Sometimes they come up the night before they intend to lay, and take a view of the place, and so having made a Tour, or Semicircular March, they return to the Sea again, and they never fail to come ashore the next night to lay near that place.

All sorts of Turtle use the same methods in laying. I knew a Man in Jamaica that made 8 pound Sterling of the Shell of these Hawksbill Turtle which he got in one Season, and in one small Bay, not half a Mile long. The manner of taking them is to watch the Bay, by walking from one part to the other all Night; making no noise, nor keeping any sort of light. When the Turtle come ashore, the Man that watches for them turns them on their backs, then hales them above high water mark, and leaves them till the morning. A large Green Turtle with her weight and struggling will puzzle 2 Men to turn her. The Hawksbill Turtle are not only found in the West Indies, but on the Coast of Guinea, and in the East Indies: I never saw any in the South Seas.

      The Green Turtle are so called, because their Shell is greener than any other. It is very thin and clear, and better clowded than the Hawksbill: but 'tis used only for inlays, being extraordinary thin. These Turtles are generally larger than the Hawksbill: One will weigh 2 or 3 hundred pound: Their backs are flatter than the Hawksbill, their heads round and small. Green Turtle are the sweetest of all the kinds: But there are degrees of them, both in respect to their flesh and their bigness. I have observed that at Blanco in the West-Indies the Green Turtle (which is the only kind there) are larger than any other in the North Seas. There they commonly will weigh 280 or 300 pound: Their Fat is Yellow, and the Lean white, and their flesh extraordinary sweet. At Bocca Toro West of Portabel they are not so large, their flesh not so white; nor the Fat so Yellow. Those in the Bays of Honduras and Compeachy are somewhat smaller still, their Fat is green, and the Lean of a darker colour than those at Boca Toro. I heard of a Monstrous Green Turtle once taken at Port Royal in the Bay of Campeachy, that was 4 foot deep from the back to the helly,

and the belly 6 Foot broad: Captain Roch's Son of about 9 or 10 Years of Age went in it, as in a boat, on board his Father's Ship about a quarter of a Mile from the shore. The leaves of Fat afforded 8 Gallons of Oyl. The Turtle that live among the Keys or small Islands on the South side of Cuba, are a mixt sort, some bigger some less; and so their flesh is of a mixt colour, some green, some dark, some yellowish. With these Port Royal in Jamaica is constantly supplied, by Sloops that come hither with Nets to take them. They carry them alive to Jamaica, where the Turtlers have wires made with Stakes in the Sea to preserve them alive: and the Market is every day plentifully stored with Turtle, it being the common food there, chiefly for the ordinary sort of People.

      Green Turtle live on Grass which grows in the Sea, in 3, 4, 5, or 6 fathom water at most of the places before mentioned. This Grass is different from Manatee Grass; for that is a small blade: but this a quarter of an Inch broad and 6 Inches long. The Turtle of these Islands Gallapagos, are a sort of a bastard Green Turtle; for their Shell is thicker than other Green Turtle in the West or East Indies, and their flesh is not so sweet. They are larger than any other Green Turtle; for it is common for these to be 2 or 3 foot deep, and their Callapees, or bellies 5 foot wide: but there are other Green Turtle in the South Seas that are not so big as the smallest Hawksbill. These are seen at the Island Plata, and other places thereabouts: They feed on Moss, and are very rank, but fat.

      Both these sorts are different from any others: For both He's and She's come ashore in the day time, and lye in the Sun; but in other places none but the She's go ashore, and that in the night only, to lay their Eggs: The best feeding for Turtle in the South Seas is among these Gallapago Islands; for here is plenty of Grass.

      There is another sort of Green Turtle in the South Seas which are but small, yet pretty sweet: These lye Westward on the Coast of Mexico. One thing is very strange and remarkable in these Creatures; that at the breeding time they leave for 2 or 3 Months their common haunts where they feed most of the Year, and resort to other places, only to lay their Eggs: And 'tis not thought that they eat any thing during this Season: So that both He's and She's, grow very lean; but the He's to that degree that none will eat them. The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding, is at an Island in the West Indies called Caimanes, and the Isle Ascention in the Western Ocean: and when the breeding time is past there are none remaining Doubtless they swim some hundreds of Leagues to come to those two places: For it hath been often observed that at Caimanes, at the breeding time, there are found all those sorts of Turtle before described. The South Keys of Cuba are above 40 Leagues from thence; which is the nearest place that these Creatures can come from: and it is most certain, that there could not live so many there as come here in one Season.

      Those that go to lay at Ascention must needs travel much farther; for there is no Land nearer it than 300 Leagues: And it is certain that these Creatures live always near the shore. In the South Sea likewise the Gallapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the Year; yet they go from thence at their Season over to the Main, to lay their Eggs; which is 100 Leagues, the nearest place. Altho multitudes of these Turtles go from their common places of feeding and abode, to those laying places, yet they do not all go: And at the time when the Turtlè resort to these places to lay their Eggs, they are accompanied with abundance of Fish, especially Sharks; the places which the Turtle then leave be-

ing at that time destitute of Fish, which follow the Turtle.

      When the She's go thus to their places to lay, the Male accompany them, and never leave them till their return: Both Male and Female are Fat the begining of the Season; but before they return, the Male, as I said, are so lean that they are not fit to eat; but the Female are good to the very last: Yet not so Fat as at the beginning of the Season. It is reported of these Creatures, that they are 9 days engendring, and in the Water; the Male on the Females back. It is observable that the Male while engendring do not easily forsake their Female: For I have gone and taken hold of the Male when ingendring: and a very bad striker may strike them then; for the Male is not shie at all: but the Female seeing a Boat, when they rise to blow, would make her escape, but that the Male grasps her with his 2 fore Fins, and holds her fast. When they are thus coupled it is best to strike the Female first, then you are sure of the Male also. These Creatures are thought to live to a great Age; and it is observed by the Jamaica Turtlers, that they are many years before they come to their full growth.

      The air of these Islands is temperate enough considering the Clime. Here is constantly a fresh Sea breze all Day, and cooling refreshing winds in the Night: Therefore the heat is not so violent here, as in most places near the Equator. The time of the Year for the Rains is in November, December and January. Then there is oftentimes excessive dark Tempestuous weather, mixt with much Thunder and Lightning. Sometimes before and after these Months there are moderate refreshing Showers; but in May, June, July, and August the weather is alway very fair.

      We staid at one of these Islands, which lies under the Equator, but one Night; because our Prizes

could not get into an Anchor. We refresht our selves very well, both with Land and Sea Turtles: and the next day we failed from thence. The next Island of the Gallapagos that we came to is but 2 Leagues from this: 'Tis Rocky and barren like this; it is about 5 or 6 Leagues long, and 4 broad. We Anchored in the Afternoon, at the North side of the Island, a quarter of a Mile from the shore, in 16 fathom water. It is steep all round this Island, and no Anchoring only at this place. Here it is but ordinary riding; for the ground is so steep, that if an Anchor starts it never holds again; and the wind is commonly off from the Land, except in the Night, when the Land-wind comes more from the West; for there it blows right along the shore, though but faintly. Here is no water but in Ponds and holes of the Rocks. That which we first Anchored at hath water on the North end; falling down in a stream from high steep Rocks, upon the Sandy Bay, where it may be taken up. As soon as we came to an Anchor, we made a Tent ashore for Captain Cook, who was sick. Here we found the Sea Turtle lying ashore on the Sand: this is not customary in the West Indies. We turned them on their backs that they might not get away. The next day more came up; when we found it to be their custom to lye in the Sun: so we never took care to turn them afterwards; but sent ashore the Cook every morning, who kill'd as many as served for the day: This custom we observed all the time we lay here; feeding sometimes on Land Turtle, sometimes on Sea Turtle; there being plenty of either sort. Captain Davis came hither again a second time; and then he went to other Islands on the West side of these. There he found such plenty of Land Turtle, that he and his Men eat nothing else for 3 Months that he staid there. They were so Fat that he saved 60 Jars of Oyl out of those that he spent: This

Oyl served instead of Butter to eat with Dough-boys or Dumplin's, in his return out of these Seas. He found very convenient places to Careen, and good Channels between the Islands; and very good Anchoring in many places. There he found also plenty of brooks of good fresh water; and fire wood enough: there being plenty of Trees fit for many uses. Captain Harris, one that we shall speak of hereafter, came hither likewise; and found some Islands that had plenty of Mammee-trees, and pretty large Rivers. The Sea about these Islands is plentifully stored with Fish, such as are at John Fernando's. They are both large, and Fat; and as plentiful here as at John Fernando's: Here are particularly abundance of Sharks. The North part of this second Isle we anchor'd at lyes 28 minutes North of the Equator. I took the heighth of the Sun with an Astrolabe. These Isles of the Gallapago's have plenty of Salt. We stay'd here but 12 days; in which time we put ashore 5000 packs of flower, for a reserve, if we should have occasion of any before we left these Seas. Here one of our Indian Prisoners informed us that he was born at Ria Lexa, and that he would engage to carry us thither. He being examin'd of the strength and riches of it, satisfy'd the Company so well, that they were resolv'd to go thither.

      Having thus concluded; the 12th of June we sailed from hence, designing to touch at the Island Cocos, as well to put ashore some Flower there, as to see the Island, because it was in our way to Ria Lexa. We steer'd North, till in Lat. 4. d. 40 min. intending then to steer W. by N.; for we expected to have had the Wind at S. by E. or S. S. E. as wo had on the South side of the Equator. Thus I had formerly found the Winds near the shore in these latitudes: but when we first parted from the Gallapagos, we had the Wind at S.; and as we sailed farther North we had the Winds at S. by W. then at

S. S. W., Winds which we did not expect. We thought at first that the Wind would come about again to the South; but when we came to sail off West to the Island Cocos, we had the Wind at S. W. by S. and could lye but W. by N. Yet we stood that course till we were in the lat. 5 d. 40 m. North; and then despairing, as the Winds were, to find the Island Cocos, we steer'd over to the Main; for had we seen the Island then we could not have fetcht it, being so far to the North of it.

      The Island Cocos is so named by the Spaniards, because there are abundance of Coco-nut Trees growing on it. They are not only in one or two places, but grow in great Groves, all round the Island, by the Sea. This is an uninhabited Island, it is 7 or 8 leagues round, and pretty high in the middle, where it is destitute of Trees, but looks very green and pleasant, with an Herb called by the Spaniards, Gramadael. It is low Land by the Sea side.

      This Island is in 5 d. 15 m. North of the Equator; it is environed with Rocks, which makes it almost inaccessible: only at the N. E. end there is a small Harbor where Ships may safely enter and ride secure. In this Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea. This is the account that the Spaniards give of it, and I had the same, also from Captain Eaton, who was there afterward.

      Any who like us had not experienced the nature of the Winds in these parts, might reasonably expect that we could have sailed with a flown sheet to Ria Lexa; but we found our selves mistaken, for as we came nearer the shore, we found the winds right in our Teeth; but I shall refer my Reader to the Chapter of Winds, in the Appendix, for a further account of this.

      We had very fair weather and small winds in this Voyage from the Gallapagos, and at the beginning of July we fell in with Cape Blanca, on the Main of

Mexico. This is so called from two white Rocks lying off it. When we are off at Sea, right against the Cape, they appear as part of the Cape; but being near the shore, either to the Eastward or Westward of the Cape, they appear like two Ships under sail, at first view, but coming nearer, they are like two high Towers; they being small, high, and steep on all sides, and they are about half a mile from the Cape. This Cape is in lat. 9 d. 56 m. It is about the height of Beachy-head in England, on the Coast of Sussex. It is a full point, with steep Rocks to the Sea. The top of it is flat and even for about a mile; then it gradually falls away on each side with a gentle descent. It appears very pleasant, being covered with great lofty Trees. From the Cape on the N. W. side the Land runs in N. E. for about 4 leagues, making a small Bay called by the Spaniards Caldera. A league within Cape Blanco, on the N. W. side of it, and at the entrance of this Bay, there is a small Brook of very good water running into the Sea. Here the Land is low, making a sadling between two small Hills. It is very rich Land, producing large tall Trees of many sorts; the Mold is black and deep, which I have always taken notice of to be a fat foil. About a mile from this Brook towards the N. E. the VVood land terminates. Here the Savannah land begins, and runs some leagues into the Country, making many small Hills and Dales. These Savannahs are not altogether clear of Trees, but are here and there sprinkled with small Groves, which render them very delightful. The Grass which grows here is very kindly, thick and long; I have seen none better in the West Indies. Toward the bottom of the Bay the Land by the Sea is low and full of Mangroves, but farther in the Country the Land is high and mountainous. The Mountains are part VVoodland, part Savannah. The Trees in those VVoods are but small and short; and the

Mountain Savannahs are cloathed but with indifferent Grass. From the bottom of this Bay, it is but 14 or 15 leagues, to the Lake of Nicaragua on the North-Sea Coast: the way between is somewhat Mountanous, but most Savannah.

      Captain Cook, who was taken sick at John Fernandoes, continued so till we came within 2 or 3 leagues of Cape Blanco, and then dyed of a sudden; tho he seemed that morning to be as likely to live, as he had been some weeks before; but it is usual with sick men coming from the Sea, where they have nothing but the Sea Air, to dye off as soon as ever they come within the view of the Land. About 4 hours after we all came to an Anchor, (namely the the Ship that I was in, Captain Eaton, and the great Meal Prize,) a league within the Cape, right against the Brook of Fresh-water, in 14 fathom clean hard Sand. Presently after we came to an Anchor, Captain Cook was carried ashore to be buried; 12 men carried their Arms to guard those that were ordered to dig the Grave; for although we saw no appearance of Inhabitants, yet we did not know but the Country might be thick inhabited. And before Captain Cook was interr•…d, 3 Spanish Indians came to the place where our men were digging the Grave, and demanded what they were, and from whence they came? to whom our men answered, they came from Lima, and were bound to Ria Lexa, but that the Captain of one of the Ships dying at Sea, oblig•…d them to come into this place to give him Christian burial. The 3 Spanish Indians, who were very shy at first, began to be more bold, and drawing nearer, asked many silly questions, and our men did not stick to sooth them up with as many falshoods, purposely to draw them into their clutches. Our men often laught at their temerity, and asked them if they never saw any Spaniards before? They told them, that they themselves were

Spaniards, and that they lived among Spaniards, and that altho they were born there, yet they had never seen 3 Ships there before: Our men told them, that neither now might they have seen so many, if it had not been on an urgent occasion. At length they drill d them by discourse so near, that our men lay d hold on all three at once; but before Captain Cook was buried, one of them made his escape, the other two were brought off aboard our Ship. Captain Eaton immediately came aboard and examined them; they confessed that they came purposely to view our Ship, and if possible, to inform themselves what we were; for the President of Panama not long before, sent a Letter of advice to Nicoya, informing the Magistrates thereof, that some Enemies were come into these Seas, and that therefore it behoved them to be careful of themselves. Nicoya is a small Mulatto Town, about 12 or 13 leagues East from hence, standing on the Banks of a River of that name. It is a place very fit for building Ships, therefore most of the Inhabitants are Carpenters; who are commonly imployed in building new, or repairing old Ships. It was here that Captain Sharp (just after I left him, in the year 1681,) got Carpenters to fix his Ship, before he returned for England: and for that reason it behoved the Spaniards to be careful, (according to the Governor of Panama's advice,) lest any men at other times wanting such necessaries as that place afforded, might again be supplied there. These Spanish Indians told us likewise, that they were sent to the place where they were taken, in order to view our Ships, as fearing these were those mentioned by the President of Panama: It being demanded of them to give an account of the Estate and Riches of the Country, they said that the Inhabitants were most Husbandmen, who were imployed either in Planting and Manuring of Corn, or chiefly about Cattle; they having large Savannahs,

which were well stored with Bulls, Cows, and Horses: that by the Sea side in some places, there grew some Red-wood, useful in Dying; of this they said there was little profit made, because they were forced to send it to the Lake of Nicaragua, which runs into the North Seas: that they sent thither also great quantities of Bull and Cow Hides, and brought from thence in exchange Europe Commodities; as Hats, Linnen, and Woollen, wherewith they cloathed themselves; that the flesh of the Cattle turned to no other profit than sustenance for their Families; as for Butter and Cheese they make but little in those parts. After they had given this Relation, they told us, that if we wanted Provision, there was a Beef-estantion, or Farm of Bulls or Cows about 3 mile off, where we might kill what we pleas'd. This was welcom news, for we had no sort of Flesh since we left the Gallapagos; therefore 24 of us immediately entered into two Boats, taking one of these Spanish Indians with us for a Pilot, and went ashore about a league from the Ship. There we haled up our Boats dry, and marched all away, following our Guide, who soon brought us to some Houses, and a large Pen for Cattle. This Pen stood in a large Savannah, about 2 mile from our Boats: There were a great many fat Bulls and Cows feeding in the Savannahs: some of us would have killed 3 or 4 to carry on board, but others opposed it, and said it was better to stay all night, and in the morning drive the Cattle into the Pen, and then kill 20 or 30, or as many as we pleased. I was minded to return aboard, and endeavoured to perswade them all to go with me, but some would not; therefore I returned with 12, which was half, and left the other 12 behind. At this place I saw 3 or 4 Tun of the Red-wood, which I take to be that sort of Wood, call'd in Jamaica Blood-wood, or Nicaragua-wood. We who

returned aboard, met no one to oppose us. and the next day we expected our Consorts that we left ashore, but none came; therefore at 4 a Clock in the afternoon, 10 men went in our Canoa to see what was become of them: When they came to the Bay where we landed, to go to the Estantion, they found our men all on a small Rock, half a mile from the shore, standing in the Water up to their wastes. These men had slept ashore in the house, and turned out betimes in the morning to pen the Cattle: 2 or 3 went one way, and as many another way to get the Cattle to the Pen, and others stood at the Pen to drive them in. When they were thus scatter d, about 40 or 50 armed Spaniards came in among them: Our men immediately call'd to each other, and drew together in a body before the Spaniard; could attack them; and marched to their Boat, which was hal d up dry on the Sand. But when they came to the Sandy Bay, they found their Boat all in flames. This was a very unpleasing sight, for they knew not how to get aboard, unless they marched by land to the place where Captain Cook was buried, which was near a league. The greatest part of the way was thick Woods, where the Spaniards might easily lay an Ambush for them, at which they are very expert. On the other side, the Spaniards now thought them secure; and therefore came to them, and asked them if they would be pleased to walk to their Plantations, with many other such flouts; but our men answered never a word. It was about half ebb, when one of our men took notice of a Rock a good distance from the shore, just appearing above Water; he shew'd it to his Consorts, and told them it would be a good Castle for them if they could get thither. They all wisht themselves there; for the Spaniards, who lay as yet at a good distance from them behind the Bushes, as secure of their prey, began to whistle now and then

a shot among them. Having therefore well consider'd the place, together with the danger they were in, they proposed to send one of the tallest men to try if the Sea between them and the Rock were fordable: This counsel they presently put in execution, and found it according to their desire. So they all marched over to the Rock, where they remained till the Canoa came to them; which was about 7 hours. It was the latter part of the Ebb when they first went over, and then the Rock was dry; but when the Tyde of Flood returned again, the Rock was cover'd, and the Water still flowing; so that if our Canoa had stay'd but one hour longer, they might have been in as great danger of their lives from the Sea, as before from the Spaniards; for the Tyde riseth here about 8 foot. The Spaniards remained on the shore, expecting to see them destroy d, but never came from behind the Bushes where they first planted themselves; they having not above 3 or 4 Hand-guns, the rest of them being arm'd with Lances. The Spaniards in these parts are very expert in heaving or darting the Lance; with which, upon occasion, they will do great feats, especially in Ambuscades: and by their good will they care not for fighting otherwise, but content themselves with standing aloof, threatning and calling names, at which they are as expert as the other; so that if their Tongues be quiet, we always take it for granted they have laid some Ambush. Before night our Canoa came aboard, and brought our men all safe. The next day two Canoas were sent to the bottom of the Bay to seek for a large Canoa, which we were inform d was there. The Spaniards have neither Ships nor Barks here, and but a few Canoas, which they seldom use: neither are there any Fishermen here, as I judge, because Fish is very scarce; for I never saw any here, neither could any of our men ever take any; and yet where ever

we come to an Anchor, we always send out our Strikers, and put out our Hooks and Lines overboard, to try for Fish. The next day our men return'd out of the Bay, and brought the Canoa with them which they were sent for, and 3 or 4 days afterward the 2 Canoas were sent out again for another, which they likewise brought aboard. These Canoas were fitted with Thoats or Benches, Straps, and Oars, fit for service; and one of these Captain Eaton had for his share, and we the other, which we fixt for landing men when occasion required. While we lay here we filled our Water, and cut a great many Looms, or Handles, or Staves for Oars; for here is plenty of Lancewood, which is most proper for that use. I never saw any in the South Seas, but in this place: there is plenty of it in Jamaica, especially at a place called Blewfields (not Blewfields River which is on the Main) near the West end of that Island. The Lancewood grows strait like our young Ashes; it is very hard, tough and heavy, therefore Privateers esteem it very much, not only to make Looms for Oars, but Scowring-Rods for their Guns; for they have seldom less than 3 or 4 spare Rods for fear one should break, and they are much better than Rods made of Ash.

      The day before we went from hence Mr. Edward Davis, the Company's Quarter-master, was made Captain by consent of all the Company; for it was his place by Succession. The 20th day of July we sailed from this Bay of Caldera, with Captain Eaton, and our Prize which we brought from Gallapagos in company, directing our course for Ria Lexa. The Wind was at North, which although but an ordinary Wind, yet it carried us in three days abrest of our intended Port.

      Ria Lexa is the most remarkable Land on all this Coast, for there is a high peeked burning Mountain, called by the Spaniards Volean-Vejo, or the Old

Volcan: This must be brought to bare N. E. then steer in directly with the Mountain, and that course will bring you to the Harbour. The Sea Winds are here at S. S. W.; therefore Ships that come hither must take the Sea-winds, for there is no going in with the Land-wind. The Volcan may be easily known, because there is not any other so high a Mountain near it, neither is there any that appears in the like form all along the Coast; besides it smoaks all the day, and in the night it sometimes sends forth flames of fire. This Mountain may be seen 20 leagues: being within 3 leagues of the Harbor the entrance into it may be seen: there is a small flat low Island which makes the Harbor, it is about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad, and is from the Main about a mile and half. There is a Channel at each end of the Island; the West Channel is the widest and safest, yet at the N. W. point of the Island there is a shole which Ships must take heed of in going in. Being past that shole you must keep close to the Island, for there is a whole sandy point strikes over from the Main almost half way. The East Channel is not so wide, besides there runs a stronger tide; therefore Ships seldom or never go in that way. This Harbor is capable of receiving 200 Sail of Ships; the best riding is near the Main, where there is 7 or 8 fathom water, clean hard Sand.

      Ria Lexa Town is 2 leagues from hence, and there are 2 Creeks that run towards it; the Westermost comes near the backside of the Town, the other runs up to the Town, but neither Ships nor Barks can go so far. These Creeks are very narrow, and the Land on each side drowned and full of Red Mangrove-trees. About a mile and half below the Town, on the banks of the East Creek, the Spaniards had cast up a strong Breast-work; it was likewise reported they had another on the West Creek,

both so advantageously placed, that 10 men might with ease keep 200 men from landing. I shall give a description of the Town in my return hither, and therefore forbear to do it here. Wherefore to resume the thread of our course, we were now in sight of the Volcan, being by estimation 7 or 8 leagues from the shore, and the Mountain bearing N. E. we took in our Topsails and hal'd up our Courses, intending to go with our Canoas into the Harbor in the night. In the evening we had a very hard Tornado, out of the N. E. with much Thunder, Lightening and Rain. The violence of the Wind did not last long, yet it was 11 a clock at night before we got out our Canoas, and then it was quite calm. We rowed in directly for the shore, and thought to have reach'd it before day, but it was 9 a clock in the morning before we got into the Harbor. When we came within a league of the Island of Ria Lexa, that makes the Harbor, we saw a House on it, and coming nearer we saw 2 or 2 men, who stood and looked on us till we came within half a mile of the Island, then they went into their Canoa, which lay on the inside of the Island, and rowed towards the Main; but we overtook them before they got over, and brought them back again to the Island. There was a Horseman right against us on the Main when we took the Canoa, who immediately rode away towards the Town as fast as he could. The rest of onr Canoas rowed heavily, and did not come to the Island till 12 a clock, therefore we were forced to stay for them. Before they came we examined the Prisoners, who told us, that they were set there to watch, for the Governor of Ria Lexa received a Letter about a month before, wherein he was advised of some Enemies come into the Sea, and therefore admonished to be careful; that immediately thereupon the Governor had caused a House to be built on this Island, and ordered 4 men to be continually

there to watch night and day; and if they saw any Ship coming thither they were to give notice of it. They said they did not expect to see Boats or Canoas, but lookt out for a Ship. At first they took us in our advanced Canoa to be some men that had been cast away and lost our Ship: till seeing 3 or 4 Canoas more, they began to suspect what we were. They told us likewise, that the Horseman which we saw did come to them every morning, and that in less than an hours time he could be at the Town. When Captain Eaton and his Canoas came ashore, we told them what had hapned. It was now 3 hours since the Horseman rode away, and we could not expect to get to the Town in less than two hours; in which time the Governor having notice of our coming might be provided to receive us at his Breast-works; therefore we thought it best to defer this design till another time.

      There is a fine Spring of fresh water on the Island, there are some Trees also, but the biggest part is Savannah, whereon is good grass, though there is no sort of Beast to eat it. This Island is in lat. 12 d. 10 m. North. Here we stay'd till 4 a clock in the afternoon; then our Ships being come within a league of the shore we all went on board, and steer'd for the Gulf of Amapalla, intending there to careen our Ships.

      The 26th of July Captain Eaton came aboard our Ship, to consult with Captain Davis, how to get some Indians to assist us in careening: it was concluded, that when we came near the Gulf, Captain Davis should take two Canoas, well mann'd, and go before, and Captain Eaton should stay aboard. According to this agreement, Captain Davis went away for the Gulf the next day.

      The Gulf of Amapalla is a great Arm of the Sea, running 8 or 10 leagues into the Country. It is bounded on the South side of its Entrance with

Point Casivina, and on the N. W. side with St. Michaels Mount. Both these places are very remarkable: Point Casivina is in lat. 12 d. 40 m. North: it is a high round Point, which at Sea appears like an Island; because the Land within it is very low. St. Michaels Mount is a very high peeked Hill, not very steep: the Land at the foot of it on the S. E. side, is low and even, for at least a mile. From this low Land the Gulf of Amapalla enters on that side. Between this low Land and Point Casivina, there are two considerable high Islands; the Southermost is called Mangera, the other is called Amapalla; and they are two miles asunder.

      Mangera is a high round Island, about 2 leagues in compass, appearing like a tall Grove. It is invironed with Rocks all round, only a small Cove, or Sandy Bay on the N. E. side. The Mold and Soil of this Island is black, but not deep; it is mixt with Stones, yet very productive of large tall Timber Trees. In the middle of the Island there is an Indian Town, and a fair Spanish Church. The Indians have Plantations of Maiz round the Town, and some Plantains: They have a few Cocks and Hens, but no other sort of tame Fowl; neither have they any sort of Beast, but Cats and Dogs. There is a path from the Town to the Sandy Bay, but the way is steep and rocky. At this sandy Bay there are always 10 or 12 Canoas lye haled updry, except when they are in use.

      Amapalla is a larger Island than Mangera; the Soil much the same. There are two Towns on it, about two miles asunder; one on the North side, the other on the East side: That on the East side is not above a mile from the Sea; it stands on a Plain on the top of an Hill, the path to it so steep and rocky, that a few men might keep down a great number, only with Stones. There is a very fair Church standing in the midst of the Town.

The other Town is not so big, yet it has a good handsome Church. One thing I have observed in all the Indian Towns under the Spanish Government, as well in these parts as in the Bay of Campeachy, and elsewhere, that the Images of the Virgin Mary and other Saints, (with which all their Churches were filled) are still painted in an Indian Complexion, and partly in that dress; but in those Towns which are inhabited chiefly by Spaniards, the Saints also conform themselves to the Spanish garb and complexion. The Houses here are but mean: the Indians of both Plains have good Field Maiz, remote from the Town: They have but few Plantains, but they have abundance of large Hog-plumb Trees growing about their Houses. The Tree that bears this Fruit is as big as our largest Plumb-tree: The Leaf is of a dark green colour, and as broad as the Leaf of a Plumb-tree; but they are shaped like the Haw-thorn Leaf. The Trees are very brittle Wood; the Fruit is oval, and as big as a small Horse Plumb. It is at first very green, but when it is ripe, one side is yellow, the other red. It hath a great Stone and but little substance about it: the Fruit is pleasant enough; but I do not remember that ever I saw one throughly ripe, that had not a Maggot or two in it. I do not remember that I did ever see any of this Fruit in the South Seas, but at this place. In the Bay of Campeachy they are very plentiful, and in Jamaica they plant them to fence their ground. These Indians have also some Fowls, as those at Mangera: no Spaniards dwell among them, but only one Padre or Priest, who serves for all three Towns; these two at Amapalla, and that at Mangera. They are under the Governor of the Town of St. Michaels, at the foot of St. Michaels Mount, to whom they pay their Tribute in Maize; being extreamly poor, yet very contented. They have nothing to make Money of, but their Plantations of Maiz and

their Fowls; the Padre or Frier hath his tenths of it, and knows to a peck how much every man hath, and how many Fowls, of which they dare not kill one, though they are sick, without leave from him. There was (as I said) never another white man on these Islands, but the Frier. He could speak the Indian Language, as all Friers must that live among them. In this vast Country of America there are divers Nations of Indians, different in their Language, therefore those Friers that are minded to live among any Nation of the Indians, must learn the Language of those people they propose to teach. Although these here are but poor, yet the Indians in many other places have great riches, which the Spaniards draw from them for trifles: In such places the Friers get plentiful incomes; as particularly in the Bay of Champeachy, where the Indians have large Cacao-walks; or in other places where they plant Cocho-neel Trees, or Silvester Trees; or where they gather Vinelloes, and in such places where they gather Gold. In such places as these, the Friers do get a great deal of wealth. There was but one of all the Indians on both these Islands that could speak Spanish; he could write Spanish also, being bred up purposely, to keep their Registers and Books of Account: he was Secretary to both Islands. They had a Casica too, (a small sort of Magistrate the Indians have amongst themselves), but he could neither write nor speak Spanish.

      There are a great many more Islands in this Bay, but none inhabited as these. There is one pretty large Island, belonging to a Nunnery, as the Indians told us, this was stocked with Bulls and Cows: there were 3 or 4 Indians lived there to look after the Cattle, for the sake of which we often frequented this Island, while we lay in the Bay: they are all low Islands, except Amapalla and Mangera. There are 2 Channels to come into this Gulf,

one between Point Casivina and Mangera, the other between Mangera and Amapalla: the latter is the best. The Riding place is on the East side of Amapalla, right against a spot of low ground; for all the Island except this one place is high Land. Running in farther, Ships may Anchor near the Main, on the N. E. side of the Island Amapalla. This is the place most frequented by Spaniards: it is called the Port of Martin Lopez. This Gulf or Lake runs in some leagues beyond all the Islands; but it is shole water, and not capable of Ships.

      It was into this Gulf that Captain Davis was gone with the two Canoas, to endeavour for a Prisoner, to gain intelligence, if possible, before our Ships came in: He came the first night to Mangera, but for want of a Pilot, did not know where to look for the Town. In the morning he found a great many Canoas haled up on the Bay; and from that Bay found a path which led him and his company to the Town. The Indians saw our Ships in the evening coming towards the Island, and being before informed of Enemies in the Sea, they kept Scouts out all night for fear: who seeing Captain Davis coming, run into the Town, and alarmed all the people. When Captain Davis came thither, they all run into the Woods. The Fryer hapned to be there at this time; who being unable to ramble into the Woods, fell into Captain Davis's hands: There were two Indian Boys with him, who were likewise taken. Captain Davis went only to get a Prisoner, therefore was well satisfy'd with the Fryer, and immediately came down to the Sea side. He went from thence to the Island Amapalla, carrying the Fryer and the two Indian Boys with him. These were his Pilots to conduct him to the Landing place, where they arrived about noon. They made no stay here, but left 3 or 4 men to look after the Canoas, and Captain Davis with the rest marched to

the Town, taking the Fryer with them. The Town, as is before noted, is about a mile from the Landing place, standing in a plain on the top of the hill, having a very steep ascent to go to it. All the Indians stood on the top of the hill waiting Captain Davis's coming.

      The Secretary, mention'd before, had no great kindness for the Spaniards. It was he that perswaded the Indians to wait Captain Davis his coming; for they were all running into the Woods; but he told them, that if any of the Spaniards Enemies came thither, it was not to hurt them, but the Spaniards, whose Slaves they were; and that their Poverty would protect them. This man with the Casica stood more forward than the rest, at the bank of the Hill, when Captain Davis with his Company appear'd beneath. They called out therefore in Spanish, demanding of our Men what they were, and from whence they came? to whom Captain Davis and his Men reply'd, they were Biscayers, and that they were sent thither by the King of Spain to clear those Seas from Enemies; that their Ships were coming into the Gulf to Careen, and that they came thither before the Ships, to seek a convenient place for it, as also to desire the Indians assistance. The Secretary, who, as I said before, was the only man that could speak Spanish, told them that they were welcome, for he had a great respect for any Old Spain Men, especially for the Biscayers, of whom he had heard a very honourable report; therefore he desired them to come up to their Town. Captain Davis and his Men immediately ascended the Hill, the Frier going before; and they were received with a great deal of affection by the Indians. The Casica and Secretary embraced Captain Davis, and the other Indians received his Men with the like Ceremony. These Salutations being ended they all marched towards the Church, for that is the place of

all publick Meetings, and all Plays and Pastimes are acted there also; therefore in the Churches belonging to Indian Towns they have all sorts of Vizards, and strange antick Dresses both for Men and Women, and abundance of Musical Hautboys and Strumstrums. The Strumstrum is made somewhat like a Cittern; most of those that the Indians use are made of a large Goad cut in the midst, and a thin board laid over the hollow, and which is fastned to the sides: this serves for the belly; over which the strings are placed. The nights before any Holidays, or the nights ensuing, are the times when they all meet to make merry. Their Mirth consists in singing, dancing, and sporting in those antick Habits, and using as many antick gestures. If the Moon shine they use but few Torches, if not the Church is full of light. They meet at these times all sorts of both Sexes. All the Indians that I have been acquainted with, who are under the Spaniards,, seem to be more melancholy than other Indians that are free; and at these publick Meetings, when they are in the greatest of their jollity, their mirth seems to be rather forced than real. Their Songs are very melancholy and doleful; so is their Musick: but whether it be natural to the Indians to be thus melancholy, or the effect of their Slavery, I am not certain: But I have always been prone to believe, that they are then only condoling their misfortunes, the loss of their Country and Liberties: which altho these that are now living do not know, nor remember what it was to be free, yet there seems to be a deep impression in their thoughts of the Slavery which the Spaniards have brought them under, increas'd probably by some Traditions of their ancient freedom.

      Captain Davis intended when they were all in the Church to shut the Doors, and then make a bargain with them, letting them know what he was, and so draw them afterwards by fair means to our assistance:

the Frier being with him, who had also promis'd to engage them to it: but before they were all in the Church one of Captain Davis his Men pusht one of the Indians to hasten him into the Church. The Indian immediately ran away, and all the rest taking the alarm sprang out of the Church like Deer; it was hard to say which was first: and Captain Davis, who knew nothing of what hapned, was left in the Church only with the Fryer. When they were all fled Captain Davis his Men fired and kill'd the Secretary; and thus our hopes perished by the indiscretion of one foolish fellow.

      In the afternoon the Ships came into the Gulf between Point Casivina and Mangera, and anchored near the Island Amapalla, on the East side, in 10 fathom water, clean hard Sand. In the evening Captain Davis and his company came aboard, and brought the Fryer with them; who told Captain Davis, that if the Secretary had not been kill d, he could have sent him a Letter by one of the Indians that was taken at Mangera, and perswaded him to come to us; but now the only way was to send one of those Indians to seek the Casica, and that himself would instruct him what to say, and did not question but the Casica would come in on his word. The next day we sent ashore one of the Indians, who before night returned with the Casica and 6 other Indians, who remained with us all the time that we staid here. These Indians did us good service; especially in piloting us to an Island where we kill'd Beef whenever we wanted; and for this their service we satisfied them to their hearts content. It was at this Island Amapalla, that a party of Englishmen and Frenchmen came afterwards, and stay'd a great while, and at last landed on the Main, and marched over Land to the Cape River, which disembogues into the North Seas near Cape Gratia Dios, and is therefore called the Cape River: Near the Head of

this River they made Bark-logs (which I shall describe in the next Chapter) and so went into the North Seas. This was the way that Captain Sharp had proposed to go if he had been put to it; for this way was partly known to Privateers by the discovery that was made into the Country about 30 years since, by a party of Englishmen that went up that River in Canoas, about as far as the place where these Frenchmen made their Bark-logs: there they landed and marched to a Town called Segevia in the Country. They were near a month getting up the River, for there are many Cataracts where they were often forced to leave the River, and hale their Canoas ashore over the Land, till they were past the Cataracts, and then launch their Canoas again into the River. I have discoursed several Men that were in that Expedition, and if I mistake not Captain Sharp was one of them. But to return to our Voyage in hand; when both our Ships were clean, and our Water fill'd, Captain Davis and Captain Eaton broke off Consortships. Captain Eaton took aboard of his Ships 400 Packs of Flower, and sailed out of the Gulf the second day of September.

William Dampier.
      A New Voyage round the World. Describing particularly, the Isthmus of America, several coasts and islands in the West Indies, the Isle of Cape Verd, the passage by Terra del Fuego, the South Sea coasts of Chili, Peru, and Mexico; the Isle of Guam one of the Ladrones, Mindanao, and other Philippine and East-India islands near Cambodia, China, Formosa, Luconia, Celebes, & New Holland, Sumatra, Nicobar Isles; the Cape of Good Hope, and Santa Hellena. Their Soil, Rivers, Harbours, Plants, Fruits, Animals, and Inhabitants. Their Customs, Religion, Government, Trade, &c. Illustrated with particular maps and draughts.
The Second Edition Corrected.
London: James Knapton, 1697.
pp.93-110

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